Cheese & Wine: A Guide to Selecting, Pairing, and Enjoying by Janet Fletcher

Author:Janet Fletcher [Fletcher, Janet]
Language: eng
Format: mobi
ISBN: 9780811857130
Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC
Published: 2011-12-15T16:00:00+00:00

LINCOLNSHIRE POACHER

Raw cow’s milk England

A farmstead cheese from Holstein milk, Lincolnshire Poacher debuted in 1992. Three years later, it won top honors at the British Cheese Awards, a remarkable feat for third-generation dairyman Simon Jones, a novice cheesemaker. But Jones had some accomplished mentors, including Jamie Montgomery of Montgomery’s Cheddar, arguably England’s finest Cheddar.

Jones and his wife, Janette, undertook cheesemaking when the price of commodity milk sunk low enough to endanger their dairy business. They follow many of the same steps used in Cheddar production: cutting the curds very small, cooking them until they are springy, gathering them in large blocks and stacking them repeatedly on one another, and then milling them until fine. Finally, the curds are salted, molded, and pressed for a couple of days. All these procedures help to expel whey and produce a firm cheese that benefits from long aging.

Wheels of Lincolnshire Poacher weigh about forty-five pounds and are matured for twelve to twenty months. During that time, they develop a hard natural rind and a dense interior the color of butterscotch. The cheese smells like butterscotch, too, or like the Mexican dulce de leche, with brown-butter notes, a caramel-like sweetness, and enough acidity and salt to keep the sweetness in check. The texture is creamier than that of most Cheddars, and the flavors last and last.

WINES THAT WORK: The same wines that are pleasing with Cheddar can partner Lincolnshire Poacher. Pour a red wine with rich fruit, such as a Zinfandel or a Cabernet Sauvignon. An even better match is a nutty sherry—a dry or off-dry amontillado or oloroso—which has some of the same caramel notes.

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